``No Closing Cost'' Loans
Any loan where the lender pays all of your closing costs (like
title & escrow fees, appraisal, lender's fees, etc.), is commonly referred to as a
``no-cost'' loan. A true ``no-closing cost'' loan differs from both a ``no lender fee''
loan or a loan in which the lender adds the closing costs to the amount financed. A ``no
lender fee'' loan, sometimes advertised by banks, usually will not cover the title,
escrow, and other outside charges you may need to complete the refinance.
With a true ``no-closing cost'' loan, you can refinance for any
incremental drop in your interest rate since the transaction costs are zero. Even in a
declining rate market, where you believe rates may continue to fall, a no-cost loan will
make sense. Should rates continue to decrease you will have invested nothing in the loan
costs, and can simply refinance at any time. Some borrowers refinance every year or less!
No cost loans will always carry a slightly higher rate than a
loan that does not pay your costs. In general, a no cost loan is the better strategy if
you plan to keep your loan for the next two and a half to three years. Longer than that,
you should consider paying the costs yourself to get a lower rate. Over time, the lower
rate will save you more money. And if you plan to keep the loan for four to five years, it
often makes sense to pay points to get an even lower rate.
Lower your Monthly Mortgage Payment
One of the most common reasons for refinancing is to lower the
monthly payment. The analysis here is simple. Ask your mortgage source what the costs
involved are (all costs, not just the lender's fees). Verify this by asking what
loan amount the new payment is based on. Then take the cost of the refinance and divide by
your monthly savings to determine the ``break-even'' point in time. As long as you plan to
keep that loan for some time longer than the break-even point, it's advantageous to
refinance.
Even with a loan that includes costs, at times it may make sense
to lower your payment by wrapping the costs into the new loan balance. Just be aware that
the costs are increasing your principal balance owed and still do the analysis above. By
following this strategy of increasing your mortgage balance, you are borrowing against
your home's equity.
Of course with a no cost refinance, the break-even is immediate
since you are reducing your payments without investing in the closing fees or increasing
your outstanding loan balance.
Sample Analysis
Let's assume that your original loan was for $200,000 and your
interest rate is 8.0%, with payments of $1,469.21. Perhaps you've had the loan for 3 years
and the balance is paid down to approximately $194,500. After talking to a mortgage
source, you are quoted 7.75% with payments of $1,409.51. ``Why, that's a savings of almost
$60/month'' they tell you. But what about the closing costs? Remember to ask if there are
any costs, and if so, how are they paid? By the lender or will they be included in the
amount financed? We'll show you how to make the right decision.
In this example, the lender is proposing to include the $2,000 in
closing costs into the new loan balance of $196,500. At 7.75% the new loan will give you a
lower payment, but it is still worthwhile to consider the costs that are being financed.
While the payment is lower than your current loan, you must also keep in mind that the
loan period is being extended by stretching the larger loan balance out over a new
30 year term.
In this example, with a savings of approximately
$60 per month, recouping the closing costs will take 34 months, which is explained in the
table below. In this current interest rate market, you should be able to keep your
break-even point at 24 months or less. Try a different mortgage, look for lower costs, or
monitor the market until rates improve slightly.
|
Existing Loan |
Refinance |
| Loan Amount |
$200,000 |
$194,500 + $2000 = $196,500 |
| Rate |
8% |
7.75% |
| Payment |
$1,469.21 |
$1,409.51 |
| Savings |
- |
$59.70/mo. |
| Break even Calculation |
$2000/59.70 = 34
months |
Other loan programs may be available to help lower
your payment without relying on the strategy of wrapping your closing costs into the loan
balance. You may want to consider a shorter fixed term, such as a 5 or 7 Year Fixed that
converts to an Adjustable Rate Mortgage (ARM), an annually changing Adjustable Rate
Mortgage, or a loan with a monthly payment option plan (and then pay only the minimum
payment possible.)
Switch from an Adjustable Rate Mortgage (ARM)
to a Fixed Rate Loan
Has your adjustable (ARM) moved up on you in the last few years?
Don't feel like starting with another low rate and watching it move up all over again?
Consider refinancing into the security of a fixed rate loan but remember that all fixed
rate loans are not the same.
Today's market offers numerous choices for loans that are fixed
for a shorter time than the traditional 30 or 15 years. Loans are available with fixed
rates for 3, 5, 7, and 10 years and the shorter the initial fixed period, the lower the
interest rate. All of these loans are amortized over 30 years so there's no need to worry
about the payment being too high. All you need to do is match up how long you expect to
keep the loan with the closest fixed term. This may be shorter than how long you plan on
keeping your home, if you feel comfortable with the refinance process.
At the end of the fixed term, these loans automatically convert
into ARMs with adjustments annually, so there is no balloon payment. TIP: As the
market shifts around daily and weekly, you might be able to get a 7 year near the cost of
a 5 year, so keep your eyes on both.
Often the current fixed rates will be somewhat above the rate on
your current ARM, unless you are several years into your adjustable. You will need to
decide if the security and insurance against further rate increases is worth the
additional payment that you might incur.
Switch from a Fixed Rate Loan to an Adjustable
Rate Mortgage (ARM)
OK, you're probably wondering what's going on. One minute we
suggest getting out of an adjustable, and then turn around and suggest you go into an
adjustable. But it really can make sense in some situations.
If you've recently decided to start looking for a
new home, or will be relocating within the next few years, it may make sense to evaluate
your current loan. By switching from a 30 year fixed to a low rate adjustable or short
term fixed, such as a 3 Year Fixed, you can save substantially over the remaining time
that you'll be in your home. In this type of situation it almost never makes sense
to pay closing costs, so shop for a no cost loan with a slightly higher rate. Also, don't
take a loan with a prepayment penalty, unless the prepayment is waived upon sale of
the home. This strategy can be best explained by showing an example. For simplicity, we're
assuming that your loan balance is the same on both the refinance and original loan.
|
30 Year Fixed |
One Year ARM |
| Loan Amount |
$300,000 |
$300,000 |
| Rate |
7.875% |
6.5% |
| Payment |
$2175 |
$1896 |
| Monthly Savings |
- |
$279 |
| Annual Savings |
- |
$3348 |
Take cash out of your home
The primary advantage of home mortgage loans is that the interest
costs are deductible for tax purposes. If you are currently paying a higher rate of
interest on credit cards, car loans, or other forms of debt that are not deductible, it
may make sense to pull the cash out of your home (provided that you have the equity) and
use it to pay off those other debts.
Lenders will typically allow you to borrow up to 75% of the
appraised value of your home in a cash out refinance. (Some lenders will go up to 80%,
however the loans offered will be less competitive than at 75%.) Paying off other bills or
credit cards, buying a new car, sending the kids to college, investing in an Internet
start-up, or buying additional real estate are all good reasons to refinance your home and
take cash out.
Even if you're able to keep you credit card interest rate at 8-9%
with low introductory offers, when you consider the tax savings of your mortgage interest,
you will be paying less interest if those balances were part of your mortgage instead. If
you are paying 8% on your mortgage and your tax bracket is 33%, your net interest rate is
5.3% which is still less expensive than any credit card program over time.
Eliminate Mortgage Insurance (MI)
If you purchased your home with less than 20% down, chances are
you have a loan that is insured by ``Mortgage Insurance'' (MI). Most borrowers are aware
that they are paying MI on a monthly basis, but you can check your mortgage statement if
you're not sure. As your home appreciates or your loan balance decreases (or a combination
of the two), your equity in the home will exceed 20%. At that time a favored method of
eliminating the MI tied to the loan is to refinance. The savings of eliminating the MI
alone will often warrant refinancing.
Be aware that mortgage lenders value your property at what
comparable homes have sold for in the last 6 months, not what they are currently
listed for. If you are close to that 20% mark, ask your mortgage source to provide you
with a ``comp search'' estimate (this service should be available for free) which will
give you an idea of how your lender will view your home's value.
If you are currently in a low rate fixed mortgage, don't
refinance simply to remove MI. Instead, work with the existing mortgage holder so that you
can keep that low rate and still reduce your payment by removing the mortgage insurance
premium. Since the lender does not have as strong an incentive as you to eliminate the MI
portion of your payment, there sometimes appears to be an unwillingness to assist in this
process of removing the mortgage insurance. Do not be discouraged by the lack of
information or cooperation if you do encounter some resistance. Request in writing the
lender's policy on eliminating MI and work with the lender until they have satisfied you.
But I Don't Want to Extend my Loan Term!
On a final note, some people hold on to their loans simply
because they do not want to extend the remaining time that they'll be paying on a
mortgage. If you are five years into a 30 year fixed loan, with 25 years remaining, how
can you be certain that you're making the right choice by refinancing into a lower rate?
Doesn't the fact that you're potentially extending your loan term wipe out the potential
savings of the lower rate? Absolutely not!
The simplest way to prove this is to take the new
loan, and amortize it over the remaining term of your current loan. That is, assume that
you still want to pay off your loan in 25 years, and then calculate what your payments
need to be to make this happen. Now compare your total payments with the new lower rate
mortgage versus your existing loan. If your total payments over the remaining term are
lower this means that you're paying less interest, and it makes sense to refinance. Since
all lenders will accept an additional payment towards principal on a monthly basis, you
can be certain that your loan will get paid off on time and you'll save on interest costs.
Let's let the numbers speak for themselves.